Well it's been another mixed couple of weeks. I've had 2 days of stunning surf on (Big) Wednesday the 27th Feb and Tuesday 4th March, the sun shone and the winds were light and I surfed until my arms were noodles and there was no feeling in my feet. This is the first winter in 10 years of surfing where I have been able to manage 3 surfs a day. Up until this year I've normally found it hard enough to go in a second time let alone a third. My new wetsuit has a large part to play in this but it is the warmer air temperature that's making a real difference. It is also the first time I've got sun burnt at this time of year, a nice bonus you might think - looking tanned at this time of year but unfortunately wearing a winter wetsuit and cap have lead to silly tan lines so I've ended up looking like I either haven't washed or rubbed my foundation in properly.
Days before it appeared in the news surfers were muttering about the storm of the winter being due this week along with the biggest tides. And as predicted it's been big and stormy but no more so than it is every winter here. The big tides that have come at the same time were the biggest worry but it seems the Welsh coast has stood up well. The pictures in this blog were taken this morning on Porthcawl sea front. It was awesome to watch the shear size and power of the waves, beautiful and scary - I was glad to be on land.
On The Push - Issue 7 is due online at the end of the week and features interviews on the dredging of sandbars, a natural sea defence in both Gower and Northern Spain. An appropriate issue for if storm like this one become more common we are going to regret removing sand from offshore to build houses (often in flood risk areas) onshore.
The films will also soon be up on youtube too.